One day in Fukuoka
Fukuoka is a city on one of Japan’s most southern islands. Despite being Japan’s 8th largest city, it doesn’t tend to get a lot of attention from visitors. Even though I only had one day in Fukuoka, I made it my mission to cover as much as ground as possible to see all the highlights of Fukuoka in 1 day.
To get to Fukuoka, I caught the Shinkansen bullet train from Hiroshima, as I’d woken up on Miyajima Island that morning. It was an absolute dream run arriving at each ferry and train platform less than a minute before the next train left. This dream run to Fukuoka had me at my hotel, the Candeo Hakata Terrace by 11.
In the hotel lobby, I made an audacious plan on the map and set off in a westerly direction, with a handful of Fukuoka’s best sights in mind. The Candeo Hakata Terrace is just a few blocks from Tenjin, a popular shopping and eating district. This seemed like the logical place to start. I hadn’t eaten since breakfast on Miyajima so when I stopped by a convenience store to buy some bandaids for my blister, I got some chicken nugget type things as well. They were more Japanese than it sounds I promise!
Bus Tour of Fukuoka
I crossed Tenjin Central Park and there was nothing doing there and as I approached City Hall I saw a big blue double decker open top bus. Figuring it for a City Sightseeing Hop on Hop Off type thing and only having half a day in Fukuoka I thought this might actually be a decent way to see a lot in a short space of time. I enquired as to the price and where it stops and she said it was 1600 yen but it doesn’t stop, it’s just an hour tour. I said “that sounds good enough, lets do it”. I got the last 2 seats on the bus and had my very own English headset for commentary since I wouldn’t understand a word of the live commentary.
And so my Fukuoka city tour began: doing the most touristy thing possible. I laugh, but the bus tour actually did a fairly decent job of orienting me in a city that I was not even close to having my bearings in yet. I tried to note down some of the streets that the narrator said “young people” like to hang out, eat, and shop at, but the thing with Japanese proper nouns, it can be a bit hard for someone with no knowledge of the language to take that speech and turn it into words on a page.
The first site on the tour was the Fukuoka Akarenga Cultural Center, a beautiful red brick building from the turn of the century. It had vibrant red walls and a greened copper roof. It’s just marvellous and really stood out from the drab modern buildings surrounding it.
The following narration was hilarious. It started geeing us up for the “Exciting Urban Expressway”, words I’d never heard spoken before. The narrator was excited because the view of the toll booth sign is the best from this bus than anywhere else in the city. I’m not sure what the live narrator was saying to everyone in Japanese but every hand on that top deck was raised, and as we passed under it, a collective cheer went up from the bus.
Then a second sign came up and I got a nudge from the live narrator encouraging me to get involved. So, being the good sport that I am joined in the chorus the second time around. Wooooooooooo.
The bus took us around to the Momochihama area where the Fukuoka Tower is located. Reaching the tower on foot was my unrealistic, lofty goal for the day, and having seen actually how far it is away (about 6km I think from the hotel) I figured seeing it from the bus was close enough. It also looked like there wasn’t heaps around the area so I easily gave the idea the flick then and there.
What was really interesting about this area though, was that it is all built on reclaimed land from part of what was Hakata Bay. The narrator pointed out that there were no electricity cables in the air (a sight you get used to in Japan). When they reclaimed the land, they built all the wires into the ground and it just looks so tidy! Around this time we also passed the baseball stadium which has one of those fancy closable roofs. Fun fact for you, it costs them 1 million yen just to open or close it. How incredible is that?
Exploring Tenjin
After my Fukuoka city tour ended I reverted back to my initial planned Fukuoka itinerary and began exploring the area of Tenjin. And by exploring I mean standing in a train station waiting for the downpour to clear. In a brief break, I ran across the road to a shopping mall where I could at least look at something interesting while I waited out the rain. It was the first soaking wet rain I’d seen on the trip yet, despite the forecast when I left saying every day was due for rain, so I’m counting that as a win. As it turns out, it probably only lasted half an hour anyhow.
I emerged from the mall into a street that looked interesting and I noticed a few places that looked suspiciously like gambling halls with funny marble games. I couldn’t quite work out what was going on but I vowed I’d be back to give it a go because at the time I’d spent my last few hundred yen on the bus tour.
I continued my eastward journey through Tenjin and worked my way out to Kotukai Road, which was a main artery through the city. I’ve passed many souvenir stores in the last week, but not one has taken the slightest fancy of mine, which is very odd for someone who loves splashing cash on useless junk. But then I came upon an interesting store that I thought might actually have something I’d treasure. It was called World Liquor System YaMaYa. I walked in headed straight to the fridge.
My Japanese beer drinking quest thus far had been significantly lacking, so it felt time to rectify that. There was a pretty decent craft beer section (as far as I could tell) so I picked up a red ale, an IPA, a porter and a Belgian wit, plus a Kirin crap beer because it was the tiniest tinny I’ve ever seen. It seemed so pointless. So I bought it for novelty’s sake (and to be clear, that’s sake, not sake the alcohol, I already have some of that in my suitcase).
All this time I’d been looking for some ramen to eat, as this was the last big Japanese food to tick off my bingo food list. I found a place a little way down from the liquor store. About 8 seats sat at a bench in front of the kitchen behind it. I ordered from a ticket machine, which had no words, just pictures of the food on it. I ordered something for about 600 yen and got a bowl of delicious thin noodles with what I think was onion, shallots and maybe pork, chicken or some white meat.
Fukuoka Castle Ruins
I started my exploration of Fukuoka Castle at the information centre, even though it was the opposite side to where I entered, but I’m glad I did because it was quite useful. I cracked the red ale on my way and got a map and some bus directions while there. There were a few sign exhibits in the info centre as well as a scale model of what they think the castle grounds might have looked like in its time. It was quite interesting to see.
The castle was exceedingly green and filled with cherry blossom trees. It would be absolutely overflowing with pink flowers (and people!) in cherry blossom season but it would be sensational, no doubt about it. There’s not much (or any) of the castle left, but the ruins that are still here give a tiny glimpse into the megastructure that once stood. It is not until you work your way through the maze that this is actually true. And it is a maze.
With no real destination in mind, I enjoyed wandering through the Fukuoka Castle grounds, happening upon whatever I came across. Once you make it to the main turret in the centre (you’ll get there, I believe in you), you are actually presented with a surprisingly good view of the city: cityscape in the foreground, mountains in the background. And to the east, you can see the indoor baseball stadium and Fukuoka Tower where I was this morning.
The top of the castle is a good place to have a rest, take in the view, and collect some more energy before you push on to the next activity. There were many crows to keep me company, but they kept to themselves mostly chatting amongst themselves. Actually, it was pretty well just me and one other dude continually crossing paths throughout the whole thing; the park was not busy at all. In fact, Fukuoka did not seem overrun with tourists either, but so far I’m starting to think that Fukuoka would be a great inclusion on any visit to Japan.
Ohori Park
I wound my way back down through the maze and continued to the park next door; Ohori Park. Ohori Park is essentially a small lake with a great running or walking track around it. It’s about 2km in diameter and I know this because it counts it out every 200m in the pavement. There are paddle boats you can hire, a cafe at one end and a long, thin island in the middle connected by bridges at either end. It was very peaceful.
By this time I was fading. I was ready to find a bus to take me back to the hotel where I could check in and refresh. The route I had walked around the park had left me close to the Japanese Garden. I figured I might as well pop in since it was on my way out. I started to walk through and not seeing anyone at the desk and signage all in Japanese it looked pretty free. But I was wrong, it cost a whole 190 yen (~$2.50). I handed over a note and to my surprise received a small stack back. Confused, I asked, “is this right?” She checked and confirmed. I had apologised to her for paying for something costing 190 yen with a 1,000 yen note, when in fact I should have been apologising because I paid with a 10,000 yen note. It turns out, in my fatigue, when I took out a “small amount of cash” from the ATM earlier I added an extra zero and took out what came out on my bank statement as AUD$498. Damn! Now how the hell am I going to spend $500 in an afternoon. Obviously I’m not, but that’s a pain, and will cost me conversion fees to convert it back when I get home.
Japanese Garden
The Japanese Garden was beautiful, and there was this stunning Japanese couple having what looked like a wedding shoot in there. Now I don’t know what Japanese people wear to their weddings, but it looked like the Japanese equivalent of what we wear to ours. The gardens were a lovely spot to wander and there were even a few seats so you could sit and enjoy it if you weren’t in a rush.
Fukuokakengkoku Shrine
After the Japanese Garden, I began to walk in the direction of my hostel, back along that main road. After about 30 seconds I noticed a huge ass Japanese gate across the road. “That looks interesting,” I thought to myself and kept walking. That was, until I saw another white couple walk through it, obviously knowing something I didn’t. I checked my map and it turned out to be Fukuokakengkoku Shrine (that’s 5 k’s in that name!). Inside was a large grassy area and a temple that gave the impression that it was for worshippers only. Either way, it was shutting and I was fine with the car park tour.
Maybe learn at least a small amount of Japanese
On the bus tour of Fukuoka, I went on earlier, the tour guide said that the ticket could be used on all regular buses for free travel. That sounded like a pretty sweet deal but when I showed it to a bus driver he looked all confused and said no I can’t use it. But it looked like he waved me on. This was far from true. I went back and said ok, how about I pay with actual cash money. And he said that won’t do either. And so, with my legs screaming out for a rest, I got off the bus extremely confused. I genuinely think I found someone that speaks less English than my Japanese. It was most unhelpful!
So I walked some more, back along the same route that I came down. I started picking landmarks that I remembered, waiting to pass the liquor store again, this time to buy a Japanese souvenir. I had some sake already, but I decided I also wanted to take home some Japanese whisky as well. Since I have 40kg on Singapore Airlines’ business class, weight won’t be a problem. At least not in that sense. Having to lug it all around Sri Lanka might be though, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. (And hopefully my tour guide might help). I got a single malt for about 1900yen with the most Japanese looking label possible. Having walked enough, and having secured my souvenir, I hailed a cab, who drove me back to the Candeo Terrace Hakata for about 800 yen. (For the record, it ended up being an amazing whisky, well chosen!)
Back at the hotel, I was really surprised at how different the Candeo Fukuoka was to the Osaka Candeo. This room was large, it had a large bathroom but no bath, the bed was a super king and very comfortable. Looked a little weird with only 2 little pillows on it though haha. It was also in a perfect location so if you’re planning to visit Fukuoka, I highly recommend it.
Kushida Shrine
I showered, changed and rested for about an hour before realising it was after 6 and getting dark and I still had a couple of places to see before I left tomorrow. I quickly packed up, grabbed my camera and headed out. Thankfully they weren’t too far, which was the plan. The first one was the Kushida Shrine; a complex of buildings housing statues and relics for Shintos to worship. The buildings were a nice mix of traditional Japanese architecture as well as one prominent building with a twist. Literally. One of the features was a large rope like thing (maybe a treet branch type thing?) twisted across the doorway.
Tochoji Temple
A couple of blocks away was the Tochoji Temple. This looked like an impressive structure and complex and should be one to prioritise for any visitor. However, maybe it was because it was almost 7 pm, or maybe it isn’t open to the public, but I could not find a way in to take a closer look. The best photo I got was over a fence. I did a full lap of the block and found nothing.
Try and work out Pachinko
On my way back I happened upon a building that looked and sounded a lot like those ones I came across earlier in Tenjin. It was loud, bright and smelt of cigarette smoke. It was a pachinko parlour and it was off the chain. Inside, it was ludicrously loud with rows upon rows of flashing machines that were a cross between pinball and slot machines. That’s what it looked like and that’s pretty much what it was. Seriously, you have no idea how loud it was, I couldn’t hear my headphones on full volume! So I sat down at a machine found a way to put a bit of money on and then observed the many people around me for what they were doing.
Slowly, I worked out that you get about 500 marbles you use a knob on the right to flick the balls (similar to pinball). But unlike pinball, you’re not trying to keep the ball alive with flippers, you’re hoping that each flick simply lands in the right spot. You hold the knob in place when you think it is flicking at a good distance (at least I think so). Every now and then I’d win some balls but I have no idea how. Some action would happen on screen and the only English word I ever saw was when to “PUSH” the big blue button in the middle. It was all very exciting, but not exciting enough to put in any more money once I lost my marbles.
Words don’t acurate depict the insanity. Here’s a video.
Yatai Markets
I continued back to Nakasu Island for the night’s actual planned activity: the yatai markets, a Fukuoka tradition. Yatai markets are food stalls that set up each night in a few places around the city. The options are usually ramen- or barbecue-based and there are stools set up around the food display window while they cook it for you behind it. There were many groups and probably a good balance between locals and tourists. There were probably 15-20 stalls lined up along the river bank. I sat down at one of them and asked if he had an English menu, as one of the other stalls did. He said no but I sat down anyway.
He pointed to a few things on the menu and said a rough English translation. He said what I thought sounded like barbecue ramen for 1000 yen and that sounded like a wonderful mix of Japanese cuisine so I picked that and added a glass of sake. I’m 100% certain I would have liked whatever I pointed to. There were thin noodles in a delicious ramen soup topped with barbecued meats. It was just delicious.
A little bit further down the river, the festivity continued with some more varied market stalls. There were craft beer vendors, sake vendors, more food stalls, and a couple of guys performing songs in Japanese on acoustic guitars. It created a wonderfully festive atmosphere and sitting with my bbq chicken balls and some lemon sake was a perfect way to end my whirlwind 4 days in Japan.
All flights, transport and accommodation were provided by Singapore Airlines in association with Visit Japan but the fun I describe is 100% real and genuine.
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