I’m just going to come out and say it. From the top, Osaka is a bit of an unattractive city. I can say this because I’ve seen it from high up. Twice actually; from the top of two high rise buildings plus a high rise castle. The skyline looks like it hasn’t been added to since the 60s and it’s all just concrete slabs jutting into the sky.
But don’t click away just yet! And keep that booking window open for a little longer. Hopefully, you’re still reading because whoever came to a city to admire the buildings?? A city isn’t beautiful because of the buildings where suits go to work.
It is only when you dig a little deeper and start exploring on foot that Osaka’s real beauty is revealed.
Initial Observations
Osaka was my first foray into Japan and my first observation of the country was that everything is very orderly and very clean. This is most evident on the subway, but also on the streets. I am yet to see any rubbish in the streets, everyone just knows to take it with them. It’s an incredible piece of culture many countries will never achieve.
My second observation was the power lines in the backstreets. For such an advanced economy I would have expected they’d have this a little tidier. I’ve seen it plenty in poorer Asian nations but never in Australia so it was a real surprise.
My final observation was the surprising lack of English spoken by the locals. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t visit a foreign country expecting everyone to be able to accommodate me by speaking my language when I don’t speak theirs, that’s an unfair expectation. However, given the education level of Japan, I might have thought English would be more widely (not spoken, but at least) understood.
There’s so much to do in Osaka — you could spend days there simply eating — but if you only have a short time, this is my suggested itinerary for 2 days in Osaka.
Osaka Castle
Osaka Castle is the most popular tourist attraction in Osaka. Inside of two moats that were once considered impregnable, the castle stands tall and looks out over the city. The structure is actually a recreation of the castle built in the 16th century that has been destroyed several times — including during the Second World War. It was most recently completed in 1997. From the top (8th) floor is a lovely view out over Osaka, the courtyard and nearby Miraiza building. Even though it is technically a recreation of the castle that was built centuries ago, it’s a beautiful example of Japanese architecture.
Inside, Osaka Castle does not resemble a castle at all, however. Where you might expect bedrooms, living rooms, dungeons, etc, instead you will find museum exhibits, telling the history of the castle and surrounding area. Some exhibits were dioramas and walls of text, while others were artefacts like scrolls.
Amerika Mura
Amerika Mura is a maze of backstreets and laneways, home to hundreds of bars, coffee shops, and restaurants. With a mangled canopy of power lines overhead, cars jostle with pedestrians along the narrow streets.
Wander these streets and find a place to eat by the sidewalk and simply watch the locals go about their day.
Dotonbori
Dotonbori Street is absolutely mental. It’s everything you expect Japan to be, with the neon and the flashing and people and the food. Sights, sounds, smells filling every sense. I would normally hate being somewhere where you are constantly dodging people, especially when a majority of these people are probably tourists (Yosuke, my local guide I met up with, estimated there were 60% tourists). But there such an energy to the place it didn’t even matter.
Dotonbori Street is lined with many restaurants with Japanese specialities. One night I had sushi, and another I had Japanese BBQ, both of which I highly recommend.
If you’ve read any Osaka guides you will no doubt have been told about the Glico Running Man. Glico is a Japanese confectionery maker, and the running man is their logo. The sign has been in this spot since 1935. Much like the Mona Lisa or, the Running Man seems to be one of those attractions that are famous for being famous. Standing tall above the Dotonbori Canal, the Olympic runner stretches out to the finish line as he completes his race. As you might expect from that introduction, the sign is of course very underwhelming and in my view, just one bright sign filling in the beautifully colourful tapestry that is Dotonbori. I don’t need to tell you where it is: you’ll see it.
Hozenji Temple and Hozenji Street
Tucked away in a little laneway behind Dotonbori Street is Hozenji Temple. Hozenji is a small temple that, like much of Japan was bombed during the war. The one statue that survived is of Fudo Myo-o and because one time a lady made a wish that came tru after splashing it with water, now everyone does so to have their own wishes come true. As a result, the statue is a vivid green, covered in moss. Ocassionally there will be events or ceremonies on by the statue, which you can watch from the outside.
Harukas 300
At the top of the Abeno Harukas Tower in Osaka is Harukas 300, an observation deck on the tallest building in Japan. I try and do a tower in every city I go to and this one was seriously one of the best. The view was unmatched anywhere in the city and was significantly better than the Umeda Sky Building. You can’t see it because I’m in the way, but I could make it quite easily Osaka Castle in the distance. It was a surprising highlight of something I decided to do last minute and is a “must do” when visiting Osaka.
This is one reason I liked it better than the Umeda Floating Garden. The other was the difficult convoluted route you have to take to get up the Floating Garden. Guys: one lift, from the bottom floor to the top, not that complex.
Tennoji Zoo
Across the road from Harukas 300 is Tenshiba Park. Tenshiba Park is a lovely outdoor space with manicured lawns, some futsal courts and a coffee shop. At the east end is the entrance to Tennoji Zoo. By world standards, Tennoji Zoo is small, so it is logical that the entrance fee is only 500 yen. Despite this there is a surprising diversity of animals there. I came across black bears, polar bears, flamingoes, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, lions, hyenas, and much more.
With this in mind, it actually didn’t feel like the best cared for zoo. Maybe because it was really hot, but a lot of the animals looked like they lacked energy. Maybe it was just a tough comparison coming from the Singapore Zoo just a few days before, which is absolutely world class. Either way, I spent an hour and felt satisfied, but you could spend 2 easily.
Shinsekai
The Shinsekai area of Osaka was a complete surprise package. I almost didn’t bother but I’m so glad I did. It’s a little area that is so colourful and vibrant and has some amazing food options. I hoed into a box of octopus balls and then had 2 rounds of tempura with a side of shochu (Japanese sweet potato liquor).
Minoo Park
About 45 minutes from Osaka, Minoo Park is a tranquil escape from the city. As much as I love city exploring, I also love to see what is outside the freeways. It took some concentration to get there from the city but totally worth it.
From my hotel, I walked to the closest station, which was Nagahoribashi. From there I caught a train to Shinsaibashi and changed lines to get to Umeda. At Umeda, I had to change rail companies and get a train from Hankyu Umeda station to Ishibashi where I changed lines again to get to the town of Minoo.
[Sidebar: I don’t really understand why there are different rail companies, but since you can use the Suica card on them all and they share stations it doesn’t have a huge impact. Though what makes it weird is that there can be two major stations next to each other like Umeda and Osaka and it’s a good 5-10 minute walk between them.]
Once in Minoo, walk towards the green hills you can see above the buildings and you’ll eventually find a walking track. It’ll start out paved and will eventually become dirt, gravel and leaves as you get higher. After about 45 minutes you’ll reach Minoo Falls, end of the line. It’s a lovely spot for a picnic as the water tumbles down from above so bring some food to eat or bring something up from the town.
Foods to Try in Osaka
Japanese cuisine is incredible, and Osaka is the home of wonderful treats. There’s a reason it is known as Japan’s kitchen. These are just a couple of the Japanese specialties I tried while I was over there.
Yakiniku (Japanese Barbecue)
Yakiniku is a fun experience because not only is the food awesome, but its sorta fun cooking it yourself. I mean, sure, there’s a certain level of lazy and arrogance from the chef when they don’t actually have to cook it, especially when we can make such a big deal about having to cook at home. But it’s so easy, and there’s no preparation or clean up. They bring out the table barbecue with hot coals, all you have to do is throw on the meat for a couple of minutes each side and you’re good to go. However, at one time I did need to be rescued when a particularly fatty item I was cooking had flames that threatened to burn the whole street to the ground. She moved all the pieces around and rubbed some ice on the grill.
My suggestion is to get some loin and outside skirt. Try the intestines if you’re feeling adventurous. And of course anything you actually recognise will be great as well.
Takoyaki (Octopus balls)
Takoyaki is a speciality from Osaka so it is well worth seeking some out while you’re here. There are loads of stalls selling them down Dotonbori Street but I also found a couple of places in Shinesekai as well. Many restaurants will also sell them but I loved the street food experience personally, so I’d recommend that. And it’s only a few dollars for 6 balls.
The speciality in Osaka is takoyaki, or as I translate it to “Octopus balls”. It’s a 6 pack of octopus cooked in a wheatflour batter and served with some kind of sauce like soy, teriyaki or simply mayonnaise. They are HOT, and it’s still runny inside, but so damn delicious you want to throw it down anyway.
I loved my time in Osaka. Personally, I didn’t stop for 2 days and I didn’t stop eating for 2 days. It was wonderful. I hope this helps you plan for your own trip to Osaka and if you’ve been before, let me know in the comments if you think I’ve missed something.
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