Los Angeles is a sprawling mess. It takes a long time to get anywhere and when you do arrive it is easy to be underwhelmed.
But this doesn’t apply everywhere. Even in Hollywood, with the right mindset and some planning, you can see a good side of the city without feeling like a massive tourist.
In 2011 I spent 2 weeks in LA sleeping on a mate’s couch and have recently had 5 days here with my family. On both trips I had a couple of days specifically in Hollywood. While seeing some of the main sights like Disney and Universal were some of the first things on our to do list, we also managed to see some of Hollywood’s lesser-known sights.
Here are a few ideas on how to see Hollywood but not feel like a huge tourist.
Coming from Australia there’s always some paperwork to do before arriving. If you’re coming from overseas, make sure you know the ESTA requirements and apply well in advance.
Get away from Hollywood Boulevard
Hollywood has this reputation as being glamourous and flashy. It’s where all the celebrities live and is where many blockbusters are filmed. This reputation is not well reflected on Hollywood Boulevard. The Boulevard is home to the Chinese Dolby Theatre, where many movie premieres are held, and where you can put your hand in a cement imprint of Hugh Jackman or Hermione Grainger’s.
The Boulevard is also home to the Hollywood Walk of Fame; 18 blocks of television and film history. This is a novelty at best, with excitement from finding a beloved star’s always short-lived.
But for the most part, Hollywood Boulevard, the supposed heart and soul of Hollywood, is dirty and touristy. It’s full of tacky souvenir stores and adults in costumes wanting to exchange tips for a photo. Case in point: while watching a game and eating wings in Hooters along the strip we saw a guy get arrested out the front.
This is not my idea of a good time and I spent as little time on Hollywood Boulevard as possible.
Get off the main streets
There are actually a ton of great places to eat and drink once you get off Hollywood Boulevarde and Sunset Boulevarde. Cahuenga Street is filled with great places. Being burger fans, Kynie and I opted for Stout Burgers and Beers. The burgers were epic and the craft beer list was up there with the best. I had a wild ale and a sour ale, both locally brewed.
Lost Property and No Vacancy are a couple of speakeasies we visited just off from Hollywood Boulevarde, with a cosy atmosphere and good cocktails, and there are plenty more where that came from.
Hike up to the Hollywood sign
Originally installed to advertise a housing settlement nearby called Hollywoodland, the Hollywood sign is one of the most recognisable landmarks in LA. The sign looks down on the area from the Hollywood Hills, making it a perfect reason to go hiking.
There are a few trails that can lead you there. According to Exsplore, one option is to start on the trailhead Canyon Drive, the other is to start at the Griffith Observatory. The Observatory is worth seeing in its own right so this would be a great option to kill two birds with one stone.
I actually didn’t hike right to the sign. But I did walk up through a residential area from the Boulevarde to the closest you can get without actually hiking. I didn’t think it was possible to get closer at the time. The residents obviously hate this, there are signs everywhere saying “Tourists go away” which we promptly ignored.
Explore Griffith Park
Griffith Park is another great place to explore the outdoors. It’s a great place for a picnic, but there’s also a lot more to explore if you have time. I’ve already mentioned the Griffith Observatory, which is located within the Park. There are a few museums you can visit: the not for profit Live Steamers Railroad Museum, the Travel Town Museum, and the Autry Museum of the American West.
Most interesting to me, however, is the Bronson Canyon and the Old Los Angeles Zoo. Don’t get this confused with the Los Angeles Zoo though, because the Old Los Angeles Zoo doesn’t have any animals, it’s abandoned.
The abandoned zoo was what actually brought me to Griffith Park initially. Many of the animal closures remain and you are free to wander in and out of them to your heart’s content. but if you’re keen to visit an actual zoo with animals visit the Los Angeles Zoo.
And here’s a fun fact for you, the climactic scene of Anchorman, where Ron and Veronica confront the bear was filmed at one of the cave enclosures here. I didn’t know this going in but the shapes in the rock were unmistakable. I was so excited to find this out organically.
- Old enclosures at the Abandoned Zoo in Griffith Park, Los Angeles
Spend a Day at Universal Studios
Alright, alright. I know this is not technically off the beaten track and is a big attraction to both Hollywood and Los Angeles. But surely even the most pretentious traveller would at least be tempted. With that acknowledgement, may we proceed? Sometimes you just have to lean in and embrace.
The rides are epic. I loved wandering some of Springfield’s best sites such as Moe’s Tavern really felt like I had been turned yellow. Hogsmeade in the Wizarding World of Harry Potter was brilliant as well. Finally, the Studio Tour is one of the highlights as it takes you backstage to some of the sets you see in films and TV shows. From now on, every time I see a street scene I wonder if this was filmed on one of the Universal Studios backlot streets.
Read about my day at Universal Studios here.
It’s such a fun day out at Universal Studios that it simply shouldn’t be ignored just because, for the most part, LA is a craphole.
Where to stay in Hollywood?
I’ve stayed in Hollywood twice now, once with little money, once with a bit. The first time I stayed at the USA Hostels Hollywood. It was a while back now but I remember it being fine and good value for money. They ran several tours, one of which was the walking tour to the Hollywood sign I mentioned earlier. It’s also perfectly located near some of the bar names I mentioned earlier.
The second time was at the Hotel Hollywood. (There are some really unoriginal names out there aren’t there, and apparently, I’m drawn to them). The Hotel Hollywood was clean, comfortable, and well located within Hollywood without being too close to Hollywood Boulevard. The staff were also really friendly and helpful and I found security to be excellent.
Click here to read about the best areas to stay when visiting Los Angeles.
Los Angeles had never looked as good as it does in the rearview mirror
