Last year some friends invited us out into the middle of nowhere to stay on their cattle station. The month was April, and the station was in the middle of mustering hundreds of cattle. Yep, that’s right, this is a working cattle station.
Kilcowera Station is located in south-western Queensland, about 12 hours drive due west from Brisbane. More pertinent to us, it is located 12 hours north-west from Newcastle. Or even longer when it floods on the main route north of Hungerford (which it happened to be at the time). Because of the flooding on the road north of Hungerford, we had to drive due north from Bourke to Cunnamulla, where we hung a left towards Thargomindah then south to the sation.
We stocked up on goods in Cunnamulla but when we attempted to fill up with diesel in Thargomindah, we found everything closed because of the Easter long weekend (and it being a very small, remote country town). Thankfully it wasn’t desperate, but it did stop us driving around some while on the station. Thankfully, the tank in our Prado is 130 litres.
I honestly have never felt more off the beaten path. Indeed, during our stay, we literally spent some time forging new paths by towing 3 large steel rings behind a beaten up 1977 Toyota Land Cruiser that probably hasn’t seen a sealed road in decades. It was so much fun to drive.
We had 5 nights and 4 full days there, most of which was spent exploring the outback in a 12 seat minivan. We were able to stay at the shearer’s quarters because it was just friends and family but there is ample camping on the grounds nearby, or if you are self sufficient, you can even camp out in the wilderness.
Rather than giving you a blow by blow account of what we did, here is a roundup of everything we did while staying at Kilcowera.
Campfires and Sunsets
The landscape of southwestern Queensland is very flat and the clouds puffy so you get to see some great sunsets. Being adjacent to the tropics it happens early and it happens quick, so be ready.
The best place for sunset is, of course, right by the campfire; a permanent fixture of the grounds and a staple of any outback and camping experience. If you are camping it would be a perfect time and a perfect place for some campfire cooking.
Stargazing
At Kilcowera you are deep in the outback. You can drive for an hour and not leave the property. There are two inhabited buildings: the shearers quarters (where guests stay), and the homestead (where the caretakers live). With no civilisation nearby there is absolutely no light pollution, giving you clear vision of the night sky in all its brightness. Take your sleeping bag outside and watch for shooting stars, you’ll see plenty.
Watch for wildlife
Just because it’s private property doesn’t mean there aren’t wild animals around. While driving around we saw emus and lizards and plenty of cattle. And were even lucky enough to find a totally camoflaged brown cricket with the most spectacular patterns on its back.
There is also a lot of wildlife you might see, but keep an eye out for their evidence. Brooklyn founds this awesome snake skin in an old sheep shearing shed as were watching the muster.
Swim in the lagoon
A short drive from the shearer’s quarterts is a large lagoon. Unless there has been lots of rain it will be quite shallow, but that’s no problem because after a few hours in the hot, dry desert sun you’ll be gagging for a dip in anything, no matter how muddy. Oh did I mention the mud bottom? It’s super soft and great for your skin.
Drive Kilcowera’s Scenic Loop
There is a large driving loop you can take, which will fill an entire day. But the landscape is so beautiful it won’t matter how long you’re in the car. Visit Mount Roy, the highest point of the property at 758 feet. We visited Red Hole, a large lagoon surrounded by beautiful wildflowers. We even learnt about the “murder bore”, the location of the first murder solved in Australia using forensics. It’s the classic crime show scenario: two men were in the business of digging water bores but were cheaping out by not digging them deep enough. One didn’t like it and was killed and stuffed down the bore so he didnt blab.
Have a barbecue by a swimming hole
There is no shortage of water holes so in the morning pack a picnic with supplies and set out for a day of swimming, eating, and enjoying the beautiful countryside. If you are camping this will be easy; just pack your cooking gear. There is also a communal camp kitchen which we borrowed some things from that we used to cook on.
Watch the muster
We visited Kilcowera during April and the station was undergoing its semi-annual cattle muster. There are about 1,000 cattle on the property, which are allowed to roam free all year, grazing on grass, growing, and having calves. But twice a year the cattle need to be rounded up, branded, and separated so some can be sold.
It’s quite a spectacle, as this involves helicopters skillfully manouvering so herd the cattle like a dog would, with some assistance from a handful of ATVs. If they don’t mind an audience, ask if you can observe (from a distance).
Explore on motorbike
Now, you will need to bring your own bikes to do this but it is a lot of fun riding around the dusty outback on a couple of dirt bikes. It’ll be hot so attach a water bottle to the bike, and it’ll be dusty so a face covering will help (hey, we all have masks now am i right?). But just be careful, you are hours from help and we don’t want to have to call the Royal Flying Doctor Service (again).
About Kilcowera Station
Kilcowera Station is a uniquely Australian experience. Located 12 hours due east of Brisbane, it is well and truly in the Australian desert outback. You can book a (basic) room in the shearer’s quarters, you camp on grass, or you can even camp further afield if you are even more adventurous.
The closest towns are Thargomindah an hour to the north and Hungerford an hour to the South. There’s not much there so you’ll want to have already stocked up on supplies at Bourke or Cunnamulla, depending on which direction you are coming from.
Or if you have your own plane and know how to fly it, there are no less than 6 airstrips on the property, which could decrease your travel time substantially.
Visit the Kilcowera website for more info.
