The Nomad Files with Hannah Small

A week or so ago I reached out on Twitter hoping to find like-minded travelers to talk travel with. A few emails later Hannah Small and I are almost best friends. Hannah has been what seems like all over the world and shares my passion for finding the hidden, the local and the unique everywhere she goes.

Hi Hannah, thanks for joining us on The Nomad Files. Tell us a bit about your story and what types of adventures you go after.

I studied French at university and also speak some Spanish. I get the most out of a trip when I can speak to locals, so I tend to go to countries where these languages are spoken for example I have been to Morocco, Argentina, Bolivia…. I also like little things such as reading road signs and adverts, eavesdropping on a local bus, so I tend to be drawn to Spanish-speaking or French-speaking destinations. That said, I like a challenge, and therefore do not go to English-speaking countries. I am interested in places with distinctive architecture and with a rich culture and history.

In January I will return to Cuba and Peru, then I will continue my journey of South America by heading to Ecuador, Columbia visiting as many places as I can before the money runs out.

I went on my first big trip alone and loved it so much that I’ve carried on travelling solo. People I know think I’m brave or crazy, but I just like the freedom and the fact that you don’t have to compromise. I also think that you talk to locals and other travellers more if you are on your own. I’ve made some good friends on the road and I like the sense of achievement that going it alone brings.

Tell me about a place or experience you’ve found through your travels that was truly ‘the road less travelled’?

Not so much the road, but tourist-free: I wanted to see tango in Buenos Aires, but did not want to pay for a show aimed at tourists, that would certainly be over-priced and probably be inauthentic. I asked at my hostel where a local tango school (milonga) was, and went to watch a class. After the class, a tango libre evening began, with local people dancing for fun. A live band accompanied them, along with an incredible, soulful singer. It was held in a bar, so for just the price of a drink I had a brilliant evening.

A tango class in Argentina, what better way to sample the local culture! What else did you see?

I went to Buenos Aires because it is one of the well-known capitals of South America. Visit it to see a beautiful cemetery just like la cimetière du Père Lachaise and for a city layout like Paris, for tango, for the unmistakeable Argentinean Spanish and for the hot empanadas you’ll be served on the long distance bus you’ll take to/from the city to/from your next stop.

What took you there and how did you find out about this place?

I went to Buenos Aires because I was on a two month long trip from Rio to La Paz, and it was one of many stops I made along the way. I think that everyone has heard of BA but I found out about what to do there by researching online. I also spoke to the people in my hostel for their advice.

How was the food situation? Did you sample much of the local flavour?

Although I like to do as the locals and learn as much about a place as possible, when it comes to food I am more motivated by cost than by any other factor. You have to eat everyday so having lots of nice meals can quickly add up. I’d sooner buy something cheap and filling than pay for an expensive but authentic dish. That said, in poorer countries, often the authentic food is cheap. Soup in Bolivia, or ‘soupita’ as everyone called it, was about £0.50 a bowl and was delicious, unlike any I’d had before. It was thickened with flour and contained chunks of potatoes, vegetables and meat. Locals would eat it sat on long benches outside restaurants, and I had it everyday.

When you travel, how do you explore your given drop zone?

I always interact with locals as much as I can. I rarely take taxis, not only because they are expensive, but also because it is much more rewarding to work out how to take a bus, and to observe local life onboard. When I do take taxis though, I talk to the driver. Taxi drivers know everything about their cities and have always provided me with invaluable information, such as areas to avoid and cheap places to eat.

Do you ever look back at places you’ve been with a list of things you missed?

I try not to think like that. You cannot see everything in a place in just one visit – I’ve lived in London for a year and know that there are many places there that I have not yet discovered. If when abroad, you cram lots in just to tick everything off a list, you can move so fast that you don’t take everything in, and you end up missing out on looking in a supermarket to see what random foods you can buy there, or observing street life. I do of course get up early and make the most out of everyday, however I try to appreciate the smaller details, such as how much of a challenge it was to buy a metro ticket from a machine in Tokyo.

There is certainly nothing to be gained from regretting, although feeling you missed out on something gives you an excuse to return!

You seem like quite an adept traveler, one who has been around the block a couple of times. What tips do you have to get the most out of your stay in any location?

As I have written about various places, I’ll give you a few:

Look for a restaurant away from the main square, that is full of locals. Try to get a table outside so you can people-watch.
Get a map as soon as you can, so you know where you are and can wander away from the main streets without worrying about how to get back, and so that you can get about without taking tours or those awful open-top buses.
Get on a bus or tram at one side of a city and take it through the centre (so that you can check out the main sites without walking amongst other tourists) right to the end of the line. For example Tram 2 in Budapest. This is much cheaper than paying for a tour bus ticket, and you can sit with, watch and listen to local people along the way.
Break into you large bank notes whenever possible so you have small change. Coins often seem to be like gold dust in developing countries and people will refuse to sell to you if you only have a large note.

Can you share with us a favourite place you’ve found in a city that people may otherwise skip over?

Jubilee synagogue in Prague is tucked away on a narrow street and is hard to find. The façade is beautiful and worth hunting for. Luckily I was with a local who took me to it. The Real Gabinete Português de Leitura in Rio is a library with one of the most beautiful ceilings I have ever seen.

I was staying with my good friend who had been living in Rio for sometime. She told me to go and I’m glad I persisted in searching for it! Most of the churches in Rio’s Centro district look average from the outside, but were all breath-taking on the inside.

Centro is the financial district and I don’t think that tourists tend to bother going there, but the ornate interiors of the churches are worth the metro journey.