One month ago, before I visited Jakarta, I would have considered the Indonesian capital one big, busy, concretey mess. I mean, it is definitely those things, but after spending a couple of days there I realised that there is much more to this sprawling city than meets the eye. If you find yourself with a couple of days in Jakarta, here’s how I would spend it.
Kota Tua, The Old City
In Indonesian Bahasa, kota means “city” and tua means “old”, so Kota Tua literally means The Old City. It is a very historic part of the city with roots reaching back to the time of Dutch occupation of Java in the 1600’s.
The centrepiece of Kota Tua is the Jakarta History Museum, which was once the administrative headquarters of the Dutch East India Company and later housed the Dutch Colonial Government. It stands tall and bare and is a reminder of European rule in years past.
Walk around the city square, and if you’re a tall, fair-haired whitey like me, be prepared for this to take some time as the locals unapologetically ask for a selfie. I was in no hurry so I was more than happy to oblige…for a time though.
There was a certain point when Jackson (another strapping Australian) of Journey Era and I stood on a podium for what must have been 10 minutes while locals queued to get photos with us. Not one word of a lie, they queued. We finally had to get our agents to call time so we could move on.
Cafe Batavia
It will be hot, so seek refuge in the historic Cafe Batavia, on the opposite side of Kota Tua to the Jakarta Museum. The building is over 200 years old and has a real prohibition era feel to it. It is ornately decorated with walls plastered in old framed photographs. Downstairs also hosts live music, and although they hadn’t started by the time I left, they had on stage a double bass, which is always a good sign.
If you prefer to interact with and support the locals, instead of drinking at the cafe, walk across the square to some markets, pull up a seat and order something from a cart. Expect little English but an authentic experience.
Museum Nasional
Now I know museums aren’t everybody’s cup of tea (they’re usually not mine either), but if you are into your history this is one museum not to be missed. The Museum Nasional contains over 140,000 artefacts from thousands of years ago. You might have heard of Java Man: the first homo sapien discovered was in Indonesia. They don’t have Java Man’s remains, but I still learnt about him.
The museum also houses collections on traditional Javanese living, historic musical instruments, and early Javanese tools.
Massage at Kokuo Reflexology
You’ll be hot, and you’ll have walked far already today, so it’s time to take a load off and relax. Once we’d arrived, they took us upstairs through this complex of hallways and rooms filled with recliner massage lounges. There must have been at least 60 beds in the place, most rooms having about 5 beds in each.
It was busy (our tour group of 40 has that effect sometimes) but it never felt crowded. I ended up in a room setup like a theatre with recliner massage lounges aimed at the screen. I’ll admit that watching Paul Blart Mall Cop and The Dark Knight (dubbed in Indonesian) wasn’t my ideal picture of relaxation, but I can see how it would appeal to some.
Being such a communal facility, this of course meant that all clothes remained on during the massage.
I had a 90 minute full body massage, which cost a grand total of 150,000 rupiah, or around USD$15.
Istiqlal Mosque
Muslims in Indonesia make up around 87% of the population so it is without surprise that you would find the world’s fourth largest mosque in Jarkarta. I expected domes and turrets, but what I didn’t expect was it would be the world ugliest building.
As I approached the mosque I inquisitively said to my neighbour words to the effect of, “Well I can see the carpark, but where’s the mosque?” Interestingly, the architect was a Christian so I think he did it on purpose so people might be inclined to flock to the beautiful Cathedral across the road.
However, once you are inside it’s a completely different story. Large, sparse courtyards were a photographers dream, and the gargantuan prayer hall is enough to make any man feel small.
The complex itself can fit an astonishing 200,000 people, so I’m just glad I visited during an off-peak day.
Jakarta Cathedral
Across the road is the neo-gothic masterpiece, the Jakarta Cathedral. Built in 1901, it is not dissimilar to many cathedrals I came across in my travels through Europe. Don’t just let it be another photo stop though. Even you aren’t a Christian, take a moment in the pews to reflect… on whatever you like. On what is likely a frantic, busy vacation, use it as an excuse for 5 minutes of quiet. We could all use that sometimes.
National Monument
The National Monument, or Monas for short, is a grand obelisk and museum that both celebrates and commemorates Indonesian independence from the Dutch. The park in which it is situated can be deceitfully big, so for an express tour jump on the little train that laps the park. It is also ring fenced with only a couple of entrances on opposite corners, so be sure to find it otherwise you’ll be up for a long walk!
At the opposite exit to where you entered near the cathedral is a small market. Most stalls are packed full of pop culture t-shirts (Pokemon Go and Frozen were the most common for me), hats, and handicrafts, so if that’s your jam get your bartering skills ready.
However, if you just need a rest, we’ve got you covered there too as there are plenty of food and drink stalls as well.
Wander the streets of Jakarta
I happened to be staying at the Mercure Sabang, which was only about a kilometre away and a very pleasant walk through some night food stalls. If we didn’t already have dinner planned, this would have been it for me, no questions.
Getting Around
Jakarta is a huge city but most of the sights above are reasonably close to each other. Many are walking distance, but it will still be hot so this will destroy you by the end of the day. Taxis and tuk tuks can be an inexpensive way to get around, especially over short distances. Best bets are Blue Bird Taxi, Uber, or Grab Taxi (similar to Uber). Just be wary that traffic can be horrendous so you want to agree on a price first whenever possible.
Sleeping
I stayed at the Mercure Sabang, which is very central to almost everything in this guide – a perfect location. The room was spacious, bed comfortable, shower big, and staff very friendly. And since you’re likely coming with a good exchange rate, you will be surprised at how affordable it is. They also have a full buffet breakfast option, which has more options for Indonesians and internationals than you can poke a stick at. Personal favourite is always the cooked to order omelettes.
Let’s keep in touch
Make sure to sign up for the mailing list to never miss the next one.
haha – that selfie of you wearing that robe is pricless! :)